What causes behaviour problems
Most behaviour problems have one of three root causes: the behaviour was accidentally reinforced (jumping, attention barking, begging), the behaviour is a response to an unmet need (destructive chewing from boredom, separation anxiety from insufficient independence training), or the behaviour is fear or anxiety-driven (resource guarding, reactivity).
The fix depends on the cause. Extinction works for reinforced behaviours. Enrichment works for unmet-need behaviours. Fear and anxiety require desensitisation and counter-conditioning — not punishment, which makes fear worse.
Jumping up
Why dogs jump
Jumping is a greeting behaviour. Puppies jump to reach faces; owners respond (even by pushing away), which provides attention. The behaviour gets reinforced. By adulthood, jumping is a well-practised habit that takes consistent retraining to change.
How to fix it
- Complete non-response to jumping. Turn away, cross arms, no eye contact, no words — complete social withdrawal. This must be consistent across all people the dog meets.
- Mark and reward four paws on the floor. The instant all four paws are down, mark with "yes" or a click and give calm praise or a small treat.
- Teach an incompatible behaviour. Train a reliable "sit" as your greeting cue. Ask for a sit when visitors arrive; reward the sit generously.
- Brief management during training. Use a leash for greetings until the new habit is stable.
Progress requires everyone to be consistent. One family member who allows or rewards jumping will significantly slow the process.
Excessive barking
Identify the type first
| Barking type | Triggers | Fix approach |
|---|---|---|
| Territorial / alarm | People passing, door bell, sight lines to street | Teach "quiet" cue; management (block sight lines); desensitisation to triggers |
| Attention-seeking | Owner present; dog wants something | Complete non-response to barking; reward silence; ensure needs are met proactively |
| Frustration / excitement | Seeing other dogs, waiting for food, lead time | Reduce arousal before the trigger; train calm default behaviours; impulse control exercises |
| Anxiety-driven | Alone, specific phobias, generalised anxiety | Address the underlying anxiety — not just the barking symptom |
Teaching the "quiet" cue
- Wait for a moment of silence after barking (do not ask for quiet while the dog is mid-bark).
- Mark the silence with "yes" and reward immediately.
- Once the dog understands silence = reward, add the word "quiet" just before the silence happens.
- Gradually extend the duration of silence required before the reward.
Leash pulling
Dogs pull because walking forward reinforces pulling. Every time a dog moves forward while the lead is tight, the behaviour is rewarded by progress. The fix requires that forward progress only happens on a loose lead.
Stop-and-wait method
- Walk with the dog on a loose lead.
- The instant the lead tightens: stop. Stand still. Wait.
- Do not say anything, do not pull back.
- When the dog returns to your side and the lead goes slack: mark "yes" and walk forward again.
- Repeat. Progress is measured in months, not sessions.
Direction change method (for persistent pullers)
When the lead tightens, turn and walk in the opposite direction without warning. The dog learns that pulling causes the destination to become further away. Combine with stop-and-wait for best results.
Resource guarding
Understanding the spectrum
Resource guarding is normal canine behaviour. Dogs guard food, toys, spaces, and sometimes people. Severity ranges from mild (stiffening, eating faster) to moderate (growling, hard stare) to severe (snapping, biting).
Management for mild guarding
- Feed separately from other pets
- Do not disturb the dog during meals or while chewing a high-value item
- Avoid reaching into the food bowl while the dog eats
- Teach "leave it" and "drop it" as formal trained behaviours before you need them in a crisis
Trading up (basic counter-conditioning)
For mild guarding of objects: approach with a higher-value treat, offer it near the object. The dog leaves the object to take the treat. Pick up the object, reward, give the object back. Repeat. The dog learns your approach predicts something good — not resource loss.
Moderate to severe guarding (snapping, biting) requires a certified behaviourist, not DIY training.
Destructive chewing
Chewing is normal dog behaviour, especially in puppies (teething) and young adults. Destructive chewing is usually one of: boredom (insufficient mental and physical stimulation), anxiety (separation anxiety, generalised anxiety), or lack of appropriate outlets.
Prevention and redirection
- Management first: until trained, dogs with destructive chewing should not have unsupervised access to the whole house. Use baby gates, crates, or tether training.
- Provide appropriate outlets: bully sticks, Kongs, antlers, snuffle mats, puzzle feeders. Rotate to keep them novel.
- Exercise before crating: a physically and mentally tired dog is less likely to chew from frustration.
- Catch and redirect, not punish: if you catch chewing in progress, interrupt calmly and redirect to an appropriate item. Punishing after the fact does not teach the dog what to chew — dogs do not generalise "you punished me 10 minutes after I chewed the chair" to "chewing chairs is wrong".
When to call a professional
Self-directed training works well for common reinforced behaviours. See a professional when:
- Any behaviour involves aggression toward people or other animals
- The behaviour appears fear or anxiety-driven (cowering, trembling, fleeing)
- You have been working on the problem for 2–3 months without progress
- You or others in the household feel unsafe
- The behaviour is severe enough to impact daily life
Finding the right professional
| Credential | What it means |
|---|---|
| DACVB (Diplomate ACVB) | Board-certified veterinary behaviourist — highest clinical qualification; can prescribe medication |
| CAAB / ACAAB | Certified Applied Animal Behaviourist — PhD-level scientific credential |
| CPDT-KA | Certified Professional Dog Trainer (Knowledge Assessed) — entry-level but standardised credential |
| No credential | Anyone can call themselves a dog trainer — ask about methodology; avoid trainers using aversive methods |
Frequently asked questions
- Why does my dog keep jumping on people?
- Jumping is an attention-seeking behaviour that started when your dog was a puppy and got reinforced — even pushing a dog away or saying "no" counts as attention. The fix is consistent extinction: every person must completely ignore jumping (turn away, arms folded, no eye contact, no words) and reward all four paws on the floor with calm praise. Inconsistency — even occasional reward — resets the training.
- How do I stop my dog barking at everything?
- Barking has different causes that need different fixes. For territorial/alarm barking: teach a "quiet" cue, then reward silence; management (blocking the trigger view) reduces rehearsal. For attention barking: never reward barking with attention — even negative attention reinforces it. For anxiety-driven barking: the barking is a symptom; the anxiety needs to be addressed directly, often with a behaviour professional.
- My dog pulls on the lead — what works?
- The most reliable method is stop-and-wait: the instant the lead tightens, stop completely and wait. When the dog returns to your side and the lead relaxes, mark (click or "yes") and continue. For persistent pullers, add direction changes: when the lead tightens, turn and walk the other direction without warning. Never allow forward progress while the lead is tight — every step forward on a tight lead teaches pulling.
- Is resource guarding dangerous?
- Mild resource guarding (freezing, stiffening, a warning growl) is normal canine communication and should be respected. The dog is asking for space. Never punish growling — you remove the warning and create a dog that bites without warning. Management (feeding separately, not disturbing during meals) prevents escalation in mild cases. Severe guarding (snapping, biting) requires a certified behaviourist, not DIY training.
- When should I see a professional dog behaviourist?
- Consult a professional if: the behaviour involves aggression (growling, snapping, biting toward people or dogs), the behaviour is related to fear or anxiety and is not improving, the problem has been present for over 3 months without progress, or you feel unsafe. Look for a board-certified veterinary behaviourist (DACVB) or a certified applied animal behaviourist (CAAB/ACAAB). Trainers without credentials vary widely in quality.
